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How to Supervene upon a Timing Belt on a 1991–94 Mercury Capri

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Perrya shares his experience working on his own Mercury Capri.

Timing chugalug. If yous change it yourself, buy exactly the right size chugalug for your make and model.

Windell Oskay via Flickr (CC By 2.0)

Sooner or later, every car owner is faced with the dilemma of when to replace the timing belt. It takes a mechanic a expert 4 hours to replace a timing chugalug ($35) and a h2o pump ($75) and his labor is $100/hr, so the job would cost $500 at least.

When deciding when to do it, is time or mileage more than important? Suppose y'all have a car that is 20 years old like the Capri, yet the miles are but 60k. That means it has been driven very little per yr. But fourth dimension does erode and corrode engine parts fifty-fifty if not driven much, belts become rigid and crevice, and metal rusts if not maintained. Driving even a few miles a day lubricates your car then that it remains in practiced shape, just just parking it volition ruin it over time.

Capri recommends you alter the timing belt at 100K in the manual, yet, others recommend at 60K or 80K. On boilerplate, the service manual presumes you have the car and drive it 10K at to the lowest degree per twelvemonth, and so in 10 yrs, it will exist 100K, time to change the water pump and belt (like Subaru Outbacks). Belts are well made and fabricated to terminal 10 years if in performance.

At least the good news is that the Capri engine is "non-interference," meaning that if the chugalug breaks suddenly while you are driving, the car will but all of a sudden die and you lot can glide off to the side of the route. Since the motor is not-interference, the broken belt should non damage the engine; the pistons will not clash with the valves and vice versa. So, no worries there.

The lesser line is that if your timing belt has obvious wear and cracking in places, it is a good time to pay the cost. Since most cars have the h2o pump in the same location, might also do that too; otherwise, you will bear the toll of opening up the engine twice.

Doing It Yourself

Irresolute the chugalug is made long and hard because of the lack of infinite in the Capri engine area and because and so many things demand to exist removed and set aside only to actually do the job. For the DIYer, expect the chore to take longer to exercise both items and yous will have a sore back unless you have a lift.

Parts to Purchase in Advance

• Timing Belt
• Valve cover gasket
• Forepart crankshaft seal
• A tube of high-temperature silicon sealant
• Accompaniment belts (optional)
• 1 gallon of anti-freeze (optional)
• Woodruff key (optional)
• Camshaft seals (optional). Check for leaks and supersede them if necessary.
• Water pump (optional)

Steps to Replacing the Timing Belt Yourself

• Bleed the coolant
• Remove all things that would prevent y'all from removing the valve cover.
• Remove the upper radiator hose
• Remove the 2 water hoses continued to the thermostat housing.
• Optional: Remove the cooling fans and the radiator. This will requite you a lot more room to work. Disconnect the lower coolant hose from the radiator (accessible from the trap door on the debris shield underneath) and remove the two upper bolts holding the radiator in place. Lift out the radiator and carefully put it aside. Exist careful not to damage the cooling fins on the radiator. The are hands distorted.
  Note: If you elevator out the radiator, the fans come with it and you relieve yourself a bit of hassle trying to loosen up those viii corroded bolts that bolt the fans to the radiator.
• Remove the A/C chugalug.
• Loosen the tensioner commodities, pivot bolt, and lock bolt on the power steering housing until the belt tin can exist slipped off.
• Disconnect the ignition wires from the plugs.
• Remove the spark plugs. This will make information technology easier to turn the engine later.
• Remove the valve cover and oil dipstick. Gear up engine timing to TDC on #1 cylinder.
• Crack the three bolts holding the water pump pulley on before loosening the belt. If y'all exercise happen to remove the belts before loosening the water pump pulley bolts, yous can concord the pulley in place past wrapping the belt back effectually the pulley and holding it tightly, as close to the pulley as possible.
• Remove the alternator belt.
• Loosen the alternator tensioner bolts. The bottom bolt tin be difficult to become to.
• Remove the water pump caster.
• Remove the accessory belt caster from the crankshaft pulley.
• Remove the crankshaft timing chugalug and related items.
• Remove the upper, mid and lower sections of the timing belt cover.

The over head cams exposed

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• Remove timing belt tensioner spring.
• Loosen timing belt tension pulley. Put car in neutral.

• Using a suitable socket, rotate the crankshaft pully clockwise two complete turns. (The transmission should exist in neutral for this.) Continue rotating until the "Eastward" (frazzle)mark on the right camshaft pulley lines up with the "E" mark engraved on the cam dust cover and the "I" (intake) mark on the left camshaft pulley lines upwards with the "I" mark on the head. This must be exact.
• Before removing the old belt, count the teeth/spaces betwixt all the points that the chugalug touches on the 3 wheels. Next, mark the starting "space", and ending infinite on both the chugalug and cams. This is easily done with some WhiteOut. Remove the belt. Transpose the marks from the old chugalug onto the new chugalug, and count the spaces to brand sure that they are correct. Finally, friction match the new marks on the new belt with the marks on the cams/crankshaft.
• Inspect the timing belt tension jump, information technology should be ii.3" end to end. If not replace. Cheque the tension idler wheels. They should be free to spin; if not supervene upon.

• The crankshaft woodruff key should exist used to align easily the marks on the chugalug with the E and I Five-notches on the rear plate. Make certain to also align the crankshaft pulley at the lesser with the timing mark on the engine cake. All iii must exist perfectly aligned.

Timing notch at lower crankshaft

• With old belt removed, tighten tension pulley with leap fully extended. Then, install the new belt. Keep tension on the opposite side of the tensioner as tight as possible while all marks are exactly matching. Caution: Do not rotate the chugalug counterclockwise.

• Clamping the cams in positions aids the solitary mechanic in reinstalling the belt past 'locking' the cam wheels into position.

  Place Cresent wrench on each cam at the bolt-shaped section of the cam between the #one and #2 lobes. Position wrenchs such that they overlap and C-clamp them together to hold camshafs in position.

Locking the ii overhead cams so you lot can put on chugalug spot on.

• Inspect and replace the front crankshaft oil seal also, supervene upon if needed. Replace cam seals, if needed.
• Install crankshaft timing belt pulley retainer and bolt. Then, turn the crankshaft ii full turns and bank check for alignment of the three wheels (the 2 overhead cams and the camshaft). If not aligned, remove the chugalug and rest fourth dimension.
• Loosen tensioner pulley bolt to permit tension bound to tighten commodities. Tighten tension pulley retaining bolt and rotate engine two full turns again to ensure the timing marks are spot on their marks (E, I, timing marker).

• Measure the timing belt tension between the camshaft pulley. Deflection should be betwixt 8.5-11.5 mm.
• Now, reinstall the three timing belt covers.
• Install the crankshaft damper, pulley and support plate then tighten retaining bolts. Install h2o pump pulley and tighten bolts. Install the generator and power steering belts, dipstick and spark plugs\wires.
• After everything is back together, start engine. If it runs poorly or had poor pinch, the timing chugalug is NOT exactly on the East, I and Timing V-notches. If this is the instance, you'll have to take all apart again to fix!

This article is accurate and truthful to the all-time of the author'southward cognition. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes but and does non substitute for personal counsel or professional communication in business organization, fiscal, legal, or technical matters.

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